Improved Stator + Kokusan Flywheel + Puller Upgrade for Aprilia RSV4 2011-2020 / Tuono V4 1000 1100 2011-2020
Please note: There are two possible kits for RSV4 engine. This kit ONLY fits RSV4 engine numbers HIGHER than 3413 with KOKUSAN flywheels. Please compare our flywheel to your original.
If your RSV4 engine number is LOWER than 3413, your motor uses the Mitsubishi flywheel, and will need Stator Assembly 857201. Refer to kit RMS900-104929.
- 2020 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100
- 2020 Aprilia RSV4 1100 Factory
- 2019 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100
- 2019 Aprilia RSV4 RR 1000
- 2019 Aprilia RSV4 1100 Factory
- 2018 Aprilia RSV4 RR 1000
- 2018 Aprilia RSV4 RF 1000
- 2017 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100
- 2017 Aprilia RSV4 RR 1000
- 2017 Aprilia RSV4 RF 1000
- 2017 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2016 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100
- 2016 Aprilia RSV4 RR 1000
- 2016 Aprilia RSV4 RF 1000
- 2016 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2015 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100
- 2015 Aprilia Tuono V4 1000
- 2015 Aprilia RSV4 RR 1000
- 2015 Aprilia RSV4 RF 1000
- 2015 Aprilia RSV4 R 1000
- 2015 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2014 Aprilia Tuono V4 1000
- 2014 Aprilia RSV4 R 1000
- 2014 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2013 Aprilia Tuono V4 1000
- 2013 Aprilia RSV4 R 1000
- 2013 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2012 Aprilia Tuono V4 1000
- 2012 Aprilia RSV4 R 1000
- 2012 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
- 2011 Aprilia Tuono V4 1000
- 2011 Aprilia RSV4 R 1000
- 2011 Aprilia RSV4 1000 Factory
Interior diameter : 43 mm
Exterior diameter : 105 mm
Thickness : 13.8 mm
Length of wires stator to grommet : 125 mm
Length of wires grommet to plug : 320 mm
Other specifications :
Number of wires : 3
Number of plugs : 1
Number of pins : 3
Wire to wire resistance :
Alternator : Between each Yellow = 0.3 ohms +-20%
Exterior Diameter: 121 mm
Interior Diameter: 107 mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 19 mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 34 mm
Thickness (exterior): 35.3 mm
Thickness (interior): 31.65 mm
Flywheel Puller Specifications
36 mm x 1.5 right hand male
Length: 60 mm
Exterior Diameter: 48 mm
Interior Diameter: 35 mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 37 mm
Before installing your new stator
- Check the AC output of the stator
- Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator rectifier
- Check and repair any melted wiring
- Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors
Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".
Before attempting to start your Aprilia adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010".
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor:
How it Works
Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.
An Important Component to use
Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller. You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor.
Actions to Avoid
Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.
Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:
How do you know if it's stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don't use more torque or you might break your wrench.
Ball Peen Hammer
If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don't forget your safety glasses.
The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that's where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:
- Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel
- Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area
- Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.
With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!
Recall-Type Stator + Kokusan Flywheel Rotor + Gasket + Puller For Aprilia 2009-2020 RSV4 & 2011-2020 Tuono V4 Repl.# 2D000049 897479
Introducing our newest heavy-duty recall-type charging system upgrade kit for Aprilia 2009-2020 RSV4 & 2011-2020 Tuono V4.
Anyone who rides or repairs Aprilia’s motorcycles is probably familiar with the stator, flywheel, and sometimes voltage regulator issues common to these models. Most of these bikes will have had at least one stator fail in its lifetime so far. The main problem was extremely strong magnets were used on the original flywheels, creating a very high power stator output, which generated excessive heat. This usually resulted in burned up, or shorted stator winding, and often in a failed voltage regulator.
The solution was a new flywheel from Kokusan with lower strength magnets, dropping the stator output and heat generation. This results in a charging system output perfectly matched for the bike’s electronic needs, and long term reliability of the stator and voltage regulator.
To prevent or correct the flywheel problems, our engineers at RMS Labs have come up with a complete reliable heavy-duty charging system replacement kit for your Aprilia. Upgrade today if you haven’t already!
Included in this kit
- Heavy-duty Kokusan brand recall-type OEM flywheel
- Triple-tested heavy-duty stator
- Stator crankcase cover gasket
- Flywheel puller
With this kit, you will be able to upgrade your current failure-prone charging system with a heavy-duty version using the latest technologies
Kokusan upgrade/recall type flywheel
Lower-strength magnets for correct stator output, low heat generation, and long-term reliability.
Built to OEM size
Fits precisely in your ride: install it and forget it.
Uses high temperature epoxy that is stronger than OEM, eliminating the possibility of magnet detachment
High grade steel capping
Prevents harsh additives in motor oil from degrading the epoxy attaching the magnets. Though extremely unlikely, if a magnet did ever come loose, it would remain in the sleeve preventing contact with the stator.
Eliminates crankshaft vibrations for longer engine longevity.
Shop with confidence
All products are tested.
Don't waste time with temporary solutions, and start fixing your ride like a pro!