200W High Power Stator / CDI / Voltage Regulator - AC to DC Charging System Upgrade for Yamaha YFZ 350 Banshee 1999-2006

CAD$ 660.00
Availability: In stock
High Output Stator 200 W

Dimensions :
Interior diameter : 103mm
Exterior diameter : 34mm
Thickness : 27mm
Length of wires stator to grommet : 60mm
Length of wires grommet to plug : 520mm
Length of pickup coil's wire to grommet : 80mm

Other specifications :
Number of wires : 6
Number of plugs : 3
Number of pins : 6

Wire to wire resistance :
Alternator : Yellow to Black = 0.4ohms +/-20%
Pickup : White/Green to White/Red = 115ohms +/-20%
Source : Green to Red = 12ohms +/-20%

Voltage Regulator Rectifier

Dimensions :
Width : 55mm
Length : 67mm
Height: 22mm
Fixation holes center to center : 55mm
Wires length: 140mm

Other specifications :
Number of plugs : 1
Number of pins : 4
Minimum Charging Voltage: 14.5V +/- 0.5V
Maximum Charging Current: 25A-35A/300W-500W
Open Circuit Voltage: <15V
Operation Temperature: -20⁰ to 85⁰

Flywheel Rotor

Exterior Diameter: 128mm
Interior Diameter: 105mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 21mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 34mm
Thickness (exterior): 12mm
Thickness (interior): 7mm

External Ignition Coil

Bracket center to Bracket: 90 mm
Wires length: 590 mm
Primary Resistance: 0.4 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 6.0K ohms
Spark plug cap Resistance: 5K
Voltage Transfer Ratio: 150:1
Insulation Resistance: >1000M

High Performance CDI Box

Height: 26 mm
Length: 87
Width: 72 mm
Fixation holes center to center: 85mm

Other specifications:
Number of plugs: 2
Number of pins: 8

High Output Stator 200 W + Voltage Regulator Rectifier
Before installing your new high output stator + voltage regulator rectifier
  • Check the AC output of the stator.
  • Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
  • Check and repair any melted wiring.
  • Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors

Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.

When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".

Flywheel Rotor

Before attempting to start your banshee adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.

Flywheel Puller

Removing a power sport vehicle flywheel / rotor:

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:

How do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

  • Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
  • Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
  • Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!

External Ignition Coil

Remove the yellow wire from the external ignition coil, if it is not applicable to your model.

High Performance CDI Box

Our CDI may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This CDI is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.

Brand New Kit Stator 200 W + Voltage Regulator Rectifier + Flywheel + Puller + External Ignition Coil + PeakRPM CDI Box

  • Direct replacement to your original unit
  • Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation
  • Connector included
  • All shipped products are tested

All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt, do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part.

High Output Stator 200 W
  • Highest grade of lamination materials
  • Highest grade of copper winding, resistant to 200 degrees Celsius
  • Pick up pulsar coil included
  • Rubber grommet included
  • Back Plate included
Voltage Regulator Rectifier
  • The Quality exceeds the OEM equipment
  • Improved heat sink and charging capabilities
  • Higher grade of electric components

We have even included the opposite connector (main harness side) as we know these are often melted/corroded/defective and a major cause for repetitive electrical issues.

Please note that the connector is not the same as the original. You must install the opposite connectors included in the box for the kit to work on Banshee's

Improved Stronger Magneto Flywheel Rotor

RMSTATOR is offering a new replacement flywheel with stronger magnetsfor your Yamaha, this flywheel can be used as a direct replacement to the OEM.

We suggest combining it to our 100 or 200 watt stator as it will run the lights better in the lower rpm's.

Flywheel Puller
  • 27 MM x 1.0 Left hand male
  • Includes crankshaft thread protector cap


External Ignition Coil
  • Highest grade of lamination materials
  • Spark plug cap(s) included
  • Our PeakRPM CDI Box provides the optimal output for your ride
  • Higher grade of electronic components
  • The Quality exceeds the OEM equipment
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