Kit Stator + Mosfet Regulator Rectifier + Flywheel + Puller for Arctic Cat Prowler 650 2006-2010

• 2011 Arctic Cat 650 H1
• 2010 Arctic Cat 650 H1
• 2008 Arctic Cat Prowler 650
• 2008 Arctic Cat 650 H1
• 2007 Arctic Cat Prowler 650
• 2007 Arctic Cat 650 H1
• 2006 Arctic Cat Prowler 650
• 2006 Arctic Cat 650 H1

RMS900-100232-R00

Stator

Dimensions:
Interior diameter: 53 mm
Exterior diameter: 119 mm
Thickness: 15 mm

Other specifications:
Number of wires: 7
Number of plugs: 4
Number of pins: 7

Wire to wire resistance:
Alternator : White Between each White = 0.4 ohms+/-20%
Alternator : White to Ground = O.L. ON DISPLAY
Pick up Coil : Blue to green = 200 ohms+/- 20%
Position Sensor :White to yellow = 0.2 ohms+/- 20%

Flywheel

Dimensions:
Exterior Diameter: 143.40mm
Interior Diameter: 120.50mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 20.25mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 33.45mm
Thickness (exterior): 50.95mm
Thickness (interior): 41.60mm

Mosfet Voltage Regulator Rectifier

Dimensions :
Width : 93mm
Length : 102mm
Height: 27mm
Fixation holes center to center : 72mm

Other specifications :
Number of plugs : 1
Number of pins : 6
Minimum Charging Voltage: 14.5V +/- 0.5V
Maximum Charging Current: 50A/500W
Open Circuit Voltage: <15V
Operation Temperature: -20⁰ to 85⁰

Stator + Mosfet Voltage Regulator Rectifier
Before installing your new Stator + Mosfet voltage regulator rectifier;

• Check the AC output of the stator.
• Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
• Check and repair any melted wiring.
• Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors.

Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010’’.

Flywheel Puller
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor:

How it Works

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

An Important Component to use

Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller. You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor.

Actions to Avoid

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:

Torque Wrench

How do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

Ball Peen Hammer

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

Propane Torch

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

• Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
• Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
• Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.

Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!

Flywheel

Before attempting to start your Arctic Cat, adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.