Improved Flywheel + Stator + Puller for Polaris Magnum 425 | Sportsman 335 400 500 | Xplorer 500 | Ranger 500 1995-2004
Battery condition is extremely important. No stator can work correctly with a bad or weak battery. Always fully charge your battery before performing any charging system tests or replacing parts. If there is any doubt, have the battery load tested or replaced.
- 2004 Polaris Ranger 500 Series 11
- 2002 Polaris Sportsman 400
- 2001 Polaris Sportsman 400
- 2000 Polaris Sportsman 335
- 1999 Polaris Worker 335
- 1999 Polaris Sportsman 335
- 1998 Polaris Magnum 425 4x4
- 1998 Polaris Magnum 425 2x4
- 1997 Polaris Xplorer 500
- 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4
- 1997 Polaris Magnum 425 6x6
- 1997 Polaris Magnum 425 4x4
- 1997 Polaris Magnum 425 2x4
- 1996 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4
- 1996 Polaris Magnum 425 6x6
- 1996 Polaris Magnum 425 4x4
- 1996 Polaris Magnum 425 2x4
- 1995 Polaris Magnum 425 4x4
- 1995 Polaris Magnum 425 2x4
Exterior Diameter: 130 mm
Interior Diameter: 116 mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 24.50 mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 22.50 mm
Thickness (exterior): 44.70 mm
Thickness (interior): 40 mm
Stator Dimensions :
Interior diameter : 42 mm
Exterior diameter : 105 mm
Thickness : 32 mm
Length of wires stator to grommet : 140 mm
Length of wires grommet to plug : 1000 mm
Length of pickup coil's wire to grommet : 170 mm
Other specifications :
Number of wires : 9
Number of plugs : 7
Number of pins : 12
Wire to wire resistance :
Alternator : Yellow to Yellow/Red = 0.4 ohms +/-20%
Pickup : White/Red to White = 115 ohms +/-20%
Source : Black/Red to Green = 450 ohms +/-20%
Source 2 : Red to Green = 4.1 ohms +/-20%
Universal Flywheel Puller Dimension :
Main Base Diameter: 105 mm (4.1"")
Thickness: 12 mm (.5"")
Before attempting to start your Polaris vehicle adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010".Before installing your new stator
- Check the AC output of the stator.
- Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
- Check and repair any melted wiring.
- Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors
Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor:
How it Works
Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.
An Important Component to use
Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller. You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor.
Actions to Avoid
Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.
Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:
How do you know if it's stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don't use more torque or you might break your wrench.
Ball Peen Hammer
If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don't forget your safety glasses.
The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that's where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:
- Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
- Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
- Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.
With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!
Brand new Stator
- Direct replacement to your original unit
- Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation
- Highest grade of lamination materials
- Highest grade of copper winding, resistant to 200 degrees Celsius
- Pick up pulsar coil included
- Connector included
- Rubber grommet included
- All shipped products are tested
*All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt, do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part.
Please note : There are more than one possible stator for these Polaris models. See specifications tab for details. PLEASE VALIDATE THESE MEASUREMENTS WITH YOUR OLD STATOR BEFORE BUYING THIS PRODUCT! You may compare with the picture and confirm your number of wires
Brand new Flywheel Puller
- All products are tested
PLEASE CHECK IF YOUR MAKE/MODEL IS COMPATIBLE IN THE 'FITS MODELS' TAB BEFORE BUYING
All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt, do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part.
Introducing our newest Heavy Duty Flywheel Rotor For Polaris 400 & 500cc ATVs.
Anyone who rides or repairs the Polaris 400 & 500cc ATVs is probably familiar with the flywheel problems common to these models. Most of these bikes will have at least one flywheel failure in their lifetime so far. Low quality epoxy was used on OEM flywheels to secure the magnets to the rotor body. Over time and many heat cycles, the epoxy fails allowing the magnets to come loose and contact the stator, potentially causing catastrophic damage.
For years, service shops & dealerships have offered low cost repairs for Polaris flywheels to save the 400$+ OEM replacement. This sounds like a great idea at first, but there are some serious issues!
The common repair is using JB Weld© Marine Blue Epoxy to reattach the loose original magnets, or to install new ones. Epoxy fixes do repair flywheels in short term, if they are done correctly. However, this kind of repair can easily cause immediate problems, and impact long term reliability of your ATV.
A Heavy Duty Flywheel to the rescue!
New RMSTATOR heavy-duty flywheel rotor for Polaris ATVs is a well-priced solution to problems with the OEM flywheel, and an excellent alternative to all the mechanical troubles you can encounter with a repair.
Built to OEM size
Fits precisely in your ride: install it and forget it.
Uses high temperature epoxy that is stronger than OEM, eliminating the possibility of magnet detachment.
High grade steel capping
Prevents harsh additives in motor oil from degrading the epoxy attaching the magnets. Though extremely unlikely, if a magnet did ever come loose, it would remain in the sleeve preventing contact with the stator.
Eliminates crankshaft vibrations for longer engine longevity.
Shop with confidence
One year warranty. All products are tested.
Don't waste time with temporary solutions, and start fixing your ride like a pro!
Why cheap repairs won't work?
Quick stronger epoxy fixes do repair flywheels in short term. It might however impair long term performance and reliability of your ride.
Remaining OEM magnets:
Original magnets remaining can still come loose at any time.
The alignment of magnets around the flywheel is critical for proper stator operation. Even very fine misalignment will reduce stator efficiency significantly.
Excessive epoxy or incorrect magnet spacing around the flywheel can easily affect the flywheel balance. This can cause stator contact or even crankshaft damages.
Incorrect replacement magnets:
The magnetic field strength of new magnets MUST match the originals. Stator failure can occur quickly with stronger magnets and stator output can be decreased significantly using weaker magnets.
Wrong epoxy properties:
Epoxy that is not rated to permanently handle high temperatures and oil immersion can quickly cause a serious failure.
Wrong epoxy for the application can also contaminate the crankcase oil, damaging the motor.
All these reasons make us strongly recommend that you replace your broken flywheel with a new 400+ OEM one or our new heavy duty flywheel.