Kit Stator + CDI Box + Flywheel + Flywheel Puller + Gasket for Arctic Cat TBX / TRV 400 | Automatic 375 / 400 2002-2008
Battery condition is extremely important. No stator can work correctly with a bad or weak battery. Always fully charge your battery before performing any charging system tests or replacing parts. If there is any doubt, have the battery load tested or replaced.
- 2008 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2007 Arctic Cat TRV 400
- 2007 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2006 Arctic Cat TRV 400
- 2006 Arctic Cat TBX 400
- 2006 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2005 Arctic Cat TBX 400
- 2005 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2004 Arctic Cat TBX 400
- 2004 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2003 Arctic Cat 400 Automatic
- 2002 Arctic Cat 375 Automatic
Interior diameter: 53 mm
Exterior diameter: 119 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Number of wires: 7
Number of plugs: 4
Number of pins: 7
Wire to wire resistance:
Alternator : White Between each White = 0.4 ohms+/-20%
Alternator : White to Ground = O.L. ON DISPLAY
Pick up Coil : Blue to green = 200 ohms+/- 20%
Position Sensor :White to yellow = 0.2 ohms+/- 20%
Height: 27 mm
Length: 106 mm
Width: 102 mm
Fixation holes center to center: 86 mm
Number of plugs: 1
Number of pins: 16
Please note that: The only real way to test your CDI box is to swap it out with another known good unit from the same year / make / model. Because of this, we recommend that you rule everything else out before replacing the CDI box.Flywheel Dimensions:
Exterior Diameter: 143 mm
Interior Diameter: 120 mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 18 mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 42 mm
Thickness (exterior): 12 mm
Thickness (interior): 13 mm
- Check the AC output of the stator.
- Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
- Check and repair any melted wiring.
- Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors
Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".
Our CDI may use a different wire color code than your original.
All the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This CDI is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
Before attempting to start your Arctic Cat or Suzuki adjusting the air gap is necessary.
Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor:
How it Works
Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.
An Important Component to use
Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller. You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor.
Actions to Avoid
Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.
Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:
How do you know if it's stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don't use more torque or you might break your wrench.
Ball Peen Hammer
If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don't forget your safety glasses.
The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that's where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:
- Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
- Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
- Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.
With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!
Brand New Kit Stator + CDI Box + Flywheel + Flywheel Puller + Gasket
- All products shipped are tested
- All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part.
- Direct replacement to your original unit
- Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation.
- Highest grade of lamination materials
- Highest grade of copper winding, resistant to 200 degrees Celsius.
- Pick up pulsar coil included
- Rubber grommet included
We have even included the opposite connector (main harness side) as we know these are often melted / corroded / defective and a major cause for repetitive electrical issues.Brand new aftermarket High Performance CDI Box
- Our part is a Plug-and-play unit, direct fit, and easy to install.
- Enhanced timing curve, increased rev limiter (approximately 1000 rpm)
- Higher grade of electronic components.
- The Quality exceeds the OEM equipment
PLEASE NOTE: This product will not fit manual transmissions, but only the automatic models. The gasket for the manual models is RM08026Brand new stator crankcase cover gasket
A gasket is not just a gasket
You wouldn’t use the same oil filter twice, would you? Why even consider keeping the same gasket then? When reinstalling a used gasket, it has lost some of its key abilities: it has already been compressed, weakening its sealing capability. It might also have suffered from heat, deformation, peeling, or other abuses. Remarks and related documents: Specifications values determined by the test methods required for ASTM F-104, type 7 materials.
Are your gaskets built to OEM specs?Regular aftermarket gaskets use a variety of cheap materials that offer inconsistent sealing results. RMSTATOR performance gaskets comply with the same standard as the OEM parts. We use the materials prescribed by the standard on every gasket and make sure the properties are the same.
Our gasket has a fully cured styrene butadiene rubber binder and a blend or aramid and cellulose fibers. It il intended for oil and water applications with short duration maximum temperatures up 290°C (550°F). *Nonasbestos gasket material.
What makes the difference
Higher material density
Our enhanced gaskets have less probability of leaking at the same pressure.
Our enhanced gasket material will keep its sealing properties at higher temperature.
Minimum flange pression
Our enhanced gaskets require less force to be applied on the metal part to seal through imperfections.
Our enhanced gaskets will resist internal pressure better.
Have you considered buying in kits including stator, puller and more?
This product was featured in ATV Illustrated Magazine
Improved Magneto Flywheel Rotor
RMSTATOR is offering a new improved replacement flywheel for your Suzuki and Arctic Cat. This flywheel can be used as a direct replacement to the OEM.
What is improved about the RM11502 flywheel?
2002-2007 Suzuki Eiger 400 and 2003-2008 Arctic Cat 400 ATVs are plagued with problems on the original flywheels. The additives in the motor oil were dissolving the epoxy that holds the magnets in the flywheel, causing them to detach and scatter throughout the engine.
The bad news is that by the time the problem occurred, no manufacturer would provide warranty repairs.
The good news is that RMSTATOR has manufactured a redesigned flywheel where the magnets are sealed in the flywheel, which reinforces the epoxy and prevents them from detaching. This new flywheel configuration corrects the problem permanently.
Dealership estimates to repair this failure are over $500 in parts alone. RMSTATOR offers you a high quality replacement part that corrects the problem for half the price. The RM11502 flywheel is not only a cost effective way to replace your failed Suzuki or Arctic Cat flywheel, but a great investment when replaced before the failure occurs.
SEAL THAT PROTECTS THE MAGNET’S EPOXY FROM OIL ADDITIVES
- 50mm x 1.5 Right hand Female
- Includes crankshaft thread protector cap
PLEASE CHECK IF YOUR MAKE/MODEL IS COMPATIBLE IN THE 'FITS MODELS' TAB BEFORE BUYING