Alternator Stator for Honda GL / CX 500 / 650 | VT 700 / 1100 Shadow | NT 650 Hawk GT 1981-1991

• 2007 Suzuki SV1000S
• 2007 Suzuki SV1000
• 2006 Suzuki SV1000S
• 2006 Suzuki SV1000
• 2005 Suzuki SV1000S
• 2005 Suzuki SV1000
• 2004 Suzuki SV1000S
• 2004 Suzuki SV1000
• 2003 Suzuki SV1000S
• 2003 Suzuki SV1000
• 1991 Honda NT 650 Hawk GT
• 1990 Honda NT 650 Hawk GT
• 1989 Honda NT 650 Hawk GT
• 1988 Honda NT 650 Hawk GT
• 1986 Suzuki GV 700 Madura GL
• 1986 Suzuki GV 1200 Madura
• 1986 Honda VT 1100 Shadow
• 1985 Suzuki GV 700 Madura GL
• 1985 Suzuki GV 1200 Madura
• 1985 Honda VT 700 Shadow
• 1985 Honda VT 1100 Shadow
• 1984 Honda VT 700 Shadow
• 1983 Honda VT 700 Shadow
• 1983 Honda GL 650 Silverwing Interstate
• 1983 Honda CX 650 Turbo
• 1983 Honda CX 650 Custom
• 1982 Honda GL 500 Silverwing Interstate
• 1982 Honda CX 500 Turbo
• 1982 Honda CX 500 Custom
• 1981 Honda GL 500 Silverwing Interstate

31120-MA1-005
31120-MC7-005
31120-ME9-005
31120-MG8-005
31120-MM8-005
31120-MM8-881
31120-MN8-004
31120-MZ6-611
32101-05A00
32101-16G00
32101-16G01

Dimensions :
Interior diameter : 53 mm
Exterior diameter : 115 mm
Thickness : 27 mm
Length of wires stator to terminals : 600 mm

Other specifications :
Number of wires : 3
Number of plugs : 0
Number of pins : 3

Wire to wire resistance :
Alternator : Yellow to Yellow = 0.4 ohms +/-20%
Alternator : Yellow to Ground = O.L. on display

Before installing your new stator

• Check the AC output of the stator.
• Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
• Check and repair any melted wiring.
• Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors

Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".

Step 1: Disconnect the original stator wires emerging from the wiring loom. Unscrew the bolts that hold the engine cover in which the stator is mounted. Then take the cover off.

Step 2: If the cover is tight, use a rubber hammer to tap on the sides. Never use a screwdriver in between the joining surfaces. Sometimes you will need to get the cover off to release the original stator leads from the engine.

Step 3: Unscrew the three or four screws that hold the stator inside the cover. These can be a tight fit. Be careful not to damage the cover when using an impact screwdriver to loosen the screws. Also, unscrew all wiring holding clips which may be inside the cover.

Step 4: Look for the rubber grommet that is along the wiring harness. The three leads run through out this. Cur the wires close to this grommet and pull the wires out. If you have difficulty getting the wires out, hold the grommet in hot water for a few seconds. The wires should then come out easily.

Step 5. Feed the new stator wires throughout the holes in the original grommet. Use the plastic sleeving supplied with the new stator to run the rest of the wires throughout. Connect the bullet connectors of the connector block to the end of the wires. Make sure you have good connections. If in doubt, solder the new connectors to the wires. Note: When fitting the copper clips to the wires and then slide the clips into the plastic connector block.

Step 6: Mount the new stator inside the engine cover. Make sure you tighten the screws carefully. Use locking compound on the threads of the screws. The same goes for the clips that hold the wiring inside the cover. 

Step 7: Make sure the grommet is in the correct position when you refit the engine cover. Also, use a new gasket to make sure it wont leak oil.

Step 8: Check if the engine rotated freely. Then tighten the bolts that hold the engine cover.

Step 9: Connect the stator wires to the wiring loom. Note: On older Suzuki's the wires from the stator have three different colors. This is intentionally done to cause confusion, but the output of the wires is the same. The new replacement stator has three yellow or white output wires.

Step 10: Start the engine and test if the charging system is working.

Note: If any powder coating on the stator has a chip in it, technically it does not make a difference in the performance or operation of the part. The color Epoxy finish is for decoration only. The electrical wire insulation underneath the Epoxy is clear colored and invisible to the eye, but is still perfect in how it functions.

Warning:

Risk of electric shock. Disconnect the battery before servicing.
Ensure proper installation by a qualified technician to avoid malfunction.