Stator for Polaris Classic Edge Indy Touring Transport 340 cc Carb F/C 2004-2008

• 2008 Polaris 340 Transport Carb F/C
• 2008 Polaris 340 Carb F/C
• 2007 Polaris 340 Edge Touring Carb F/C
• 2007 Polaris 340 Edge LX Carb F/C
• 2006 Polaris 340 Touring Carb F/C
• 2006 Polaris 340 Edge Touring Carb F/C
• 2006 Polaris 340 Classic Carb F/C
• 2005 Polaris 340 Touring Carb F/C
• 2005 Polaris 340 Classic Carb F/C
• 2004 Polaris Indy 340 Carb F/C
• 2004 Polaris 340 Touring Carb F/C
• 2004 Polaris 340 Classic Carb F/C

3089472

Dimensions :
Interior diameter : 41mm
Exterior diameter : 104mm
Thickness : 15mm
Length of wires stator to grommet : 65mm
Length of wires grommet to plug : 160mm
Length of pickup coil's wire to grommet : 120mm

Other specifications :
Number of wires : 12
Number of plugs : 3
Number of pins : 11

Wire to wire resistance :
Alternator : Yellow to Yellow/Red = 0.4ohms +/-20%
Pickup : White/Red to White = 200ohms +/-20%
Source : Green & Black/Red to Red = 20ohms +/-20%

Before installing your new stator

• Check the AC output of the stator.
• Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
• Check and repair any melted wiring.
• Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors

Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".

1. Remove front fenders.
2. Remove stick stator assembly, this is done by removing the left hand side cover of the engine. There is oil in this part of the engine, you will need to drain the oil or tilt the bike up on its side so no oil drains out. You will need a flywheel puller but it will require a #25 Torx driver to remove the stator.
3. Once the stock stator has been removed install the new RM stator into the case and re-install back into the engine.
4. Route the stator wiring up to the front of the bike in the same manner that the stock stator wires were routed. Plug the RM stator back onto the stock harness. The two pink and white wires plug back into the same spot as the stock stator did. The other two pin connector with the white wire also plugs into the same spot as the stock stator was plugged into, Note that the RM plug is missing the yellow wire, this is normal. The additional white and yellow wires coming from the RM plus into the new RM rectifier/regulator.
5. Remove and replace the stock regulator/rectifier with the new RM stator regulator/rectifier. This is the finned silver box with the four pin connector in the front of the bike.
6. Locate the 6 pin connector coming from the handle.
7. Remove the Yellow/Red wire from the female coupler. This is done by using a small flat screwdriver and lifting the tab that holds the pin in place and pulling the wire out the back side.
8. Install yellow/red wire into the coupler provided. Note that side of the coupler the pin is installed into.
9. Plug six pin connector back in.
10. Locate 4 pin connector for the stock key switch.
11. Plug in the RM stator provided jumper wire.
12. Coming off of the jumper wire is a brown wire with a gray connector, this will plug into the yellow/red wire you removed from the 6 pin connector.
13. You have finished the installation of the kit, note that when re installing the fenders the key will plug into the other end of the RM stator provided jumper wire.
14. After this kit has been installed your headlights will now run off of the battery.

Warning:

Risk of electric shock. Disconnect the battery before servicing.
Ensure proper installation by a qualified technician to avoid malfunction.