Kit Stator 100 W + External Ignition Coil + Flywheel + Puller for Yamaha YFZ 350 Banshee 1987-1994

CAD$ 446.00
Availability: In stock
Number of wires : 6
Number of terminals : 6
Alternator : Yellow to Black = 0.8 ohms+/-20%
Source 1 : Green to Red = 18 ohms+/-20%
Pickup 1 : White/Green to White/Red = 115 ohms+/-20%

Interior Diameter: 42mm
Exterior Diamter: 103mm
Thickness: 17mm

External Ignition coil
Bracket center to Bracket: 90mm

Diameter: 130 mm
Before installing your new Stator
  • Check the AC output of the stator.
  • Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator/rectifier
  • Check and repair any melted wiring.
  • Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors

Before attempting to start your YAMAHA YFZ350 BANSHEE:
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.Our stator may use a different wire color code then youメre original. All of the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.Adjusting the air gap is necessary, rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010メメ.Set adjustable timing plate at zero for stock timing


Before attempting to start your banshee adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulsar coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.

External Ignition Coil

Remove the yellow wire from the external ignition coil, if it is not applicable to your model.

Flywheel Puller

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

We can give you two simple tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. But how do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Remember: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

  • Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
  • Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
  • Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!

Brand New Kit Stator + Flywheel + External Ignition Coil + Flywheel Puller

  • Direct replacement to your original unit
  • Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation
  • All shipped products are tested

All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt, do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part.

High Output Stator
  • Highest grade of lamination materials
  • Highest grade of copper winding, resistant to 200 degrees Celsius
  • Pick up pulsar coil included
  • Connector included
  • Rubber grommet included
  • Back Plate included
Improved Stronger Magneto Flywheel Rotor

RMSTATOR is offering a new replacement flywheel with stronger magnetsfor your Suzuki and Kawasaki, this flywheel can be used as a direct replacement to the OEM.

We suggest combining it to our 100 or 200 watt stator as it will run the lights better in the lower rpm's. External Ignition Coil
  • Highest grade of lamination materials
  • Spark plug cap(s) included
  • 27 MM x 1.0 Left hand male


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